Diary for New Zealand
January – March 2006

Tues
17th Jan.

Manchester to Singapore

Good flight and great food; I'm already enjoying my holiday!  Stop-over in Zόrich (30 mins);  watched The Constant Gardener; slept a little;  arrived after breakfast

 

Wed.
18th Jan.

Singapore

Shangri La Hotel;  upgraded to Garden room;  walked out to Orchard Road;  lunch in coffee bar, home and rest;  taxi to Boat Quay, heavy rain, given an umbrella!;  lobster, sitting by the quay;  returned the umbrella and walked around

 

Thurs
19th Jan

Singapore

Singapore Botanic Gardens, we walked there and around most of the day;  visited the Orchid Garden;  Peter on into town and bought glasses cleaners and I went home;  taxi to Chinatown, decorations already up for the New Year, lots of people;  dinner in a tiny restaurant behind the market stalls

 

Fri.
20th Jan

Singapore

Lazy morning, Peter swam;  lunch in hotel and bus into town;  Peter bought new organiser;  taxi to Night Safari and meal before we went in;  fascinating with show and bus ride around, we also walked round too and saw lots of animals, only missing out on one or two

 

Sat.
21st Jan.

Singapore  to Auckland

Up early and left for the airport for flight to Auckland;  I watched Separate Lies with Tom Wilkinson;  slept a little;  arrived just after midnight and then we had to wait in a queue as we had brought our boots;  boots removed and the soles washed, they never looked so clean since we bought them!  it all took time but we were picked up and taken to the hotel hear the centre of the city

 

Sun
22nd Jan

Auckland

We have an apartment on the 26th floor, fabulous view towards the north and sea;  used the washing machine and dryer in our apartment and repacked for NZ;  walked to the harbour, quick lunch and a Harbour Cruise;  took free bus back for a rest before good fish meal at the Harbour Restaurant overlooking the sea;  walked back home, chilly wind

 

Mon
23rd Jan

Auckland to Coromandel

Dull day; walked up to the Skytower and went up, great views all round but you could feel giddy;  walked across town to pick up a car, we choose a bigger one;  lunch across the road in the old railway station, drove back to pick up our luggage;  succeeded in navigating out of Auckland and drove east along the motorway;  stopped for a rest and a cup of tea;  to Thames which we skirted, then along the winding coast road to Coromandel and our first B&B;  easily found just before the town;  dinner at Umu, we both had scallops in a cream and wine sauce, so delicious!  Weather forecast has high winds and heavy rain (ca. 100 mm)

 

Tues
24th Jan

Coromandel

Windy all night and then it started to rain - - -it rained really heavily for more than 14 hours, coming horizontally with the gusts of wind;  we drove into town to buy a bird book, have a light lunch and Peter caught up on the
e-mails;  thought of driving on to explore but it wasn't really safe so we returned, only just in time as the road was already flooded and was soon closed;  road in the other direction was also closed so we were all marooned;  Robin cooked us all (8 guests) a huge pot of soup which went down very well

 

Wed
25th Jan

Coromandel

Roads covered with debris but the floods had gone;  too wet for the planned walk to the north on the peninsular;  coffee in town, visited the pottery but missed train;  over the ridge to Whangapoua;  lunch at the and of the road and tried to walk around to New Chum's Beach, the way was rocky, the sea rough so we returned and walked all along the beach instead; Dolce de Leche ice cream;  dinner equally good at Umu;  quiet night

 

 

Coromandel to Rotorua

Quieter day but still some rain about;  visited the Kauri Grove to see some of these enormous trees;  lunch in the car at Whitianga (rain);  stopped at Hot Water Beach, dull, as it was high tide and raining;  lots of traffic at Tauranga;  found B&B by ourselves, lovely, overlooking the town and high on a hill with views all round;  dinner at Lewishams in town

 

Fri
27th Jan

Rotorua

Sunny;  Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland;  arrived in time to see the Lady Knox Geyser go off (seeded with soap to help it), then round all the trails – superb – this is what we came to Rotorua to see;  to town for a bus out to Tamaki Maori Village, interesting visit where we saw a little of the life in the village, good concert, and Hangi feast, cooked on buried hot stones;  amusing ride home but we were unable to remember any songs to sing

 

Sat
28th Jan

Rotorua

Lake Okatanina – mainly hot and sunny;  we took the Eastern Okatanina Walkway down to the end of the lake for picnic lunch (8 km), not quite to Humphries Bay (11.5 km); on the way back we stopped at a beach to swim;  walked about 10 miles, up and down but a good path;  Indian meal in town

 

Sun
29th Jan

Rotorua

Tired today, warm and sunny;  the Kiwi Experience, we saw eggs and chicks and watched them being fed, also two adults in captivity;  Rainbow Springs, lots of trout, some birds and animals and a nice relaxing wander round;  sandwich lunch there then home for a rest and sleep;  Japanese Banquet this evening – some 6 courses – all interesting – all delicious

 

Mon
30th Jan

Rotorua to Turangi

Late start as Maureen had done more washing for us and we wanted to dry it, so we visited the Redwoods and then up to Quarry lookout, steep and hot (we needed clean clothes after that!);  drove south and ate our picnic at Wai-o-Tapu and on to find the thermal power station;  later we saw a second bigger one at Wairakei and drove through the steam field to a lookout point;  met a Studious group;  to Huka Falls at Taupo;  along lake to Turangi;  staying in a cottage by ourselves;  huge dinner at Italian restaurant, luckily we had only ordered one main to share

 

Tues
31st Jan

Turangi

Tongariro National Park;  undecided where to walk so on to the Visitor Centre at Whakapapa Village – a long way;  after coffee we went off for the walk to the Tama lakes, the first 2 1/2 km a good path as far as Taraniki Falls (we walked down the steep path to have our lunch there) but afterwards the going was much rougher, streams, bogs and up-and-down, up to an overview for the Lower Tama Lake;  back down the path to the falls and then down the other side of the river, here too more rugged with some steep steps;  back to the car after ~ 5 hr 30 mins – 9 miles –
600 ft;  a very good dinner at a posh Restaurant just across the road, 3 courses but only 1 portion each between us

 

Wed
1st Feb

Turangi

51 years today since our first date!  Tired, so a rest day;  Peter walked to the village to do the e-mails, back for me, and both back along the river to the bridge;  I visited the doctor as I had developed a rash under my stocking (could have been different NZ washing powder);  bought lunch and took it back home to eat late;  rest and sleep then a walk south along the river;  Italian restaurant again and another good huge dinner between us;  home early and quiet evening

 

Thurs
2nd Feb

Turangi to Napier

Drove south along Desert Road through the volcanoes, but they were still in cloud so we only had a small glimpse of a snow field on Mt Ruapuhu;  after coffee at the army museum we bought petrol at Taihape before setting off on a 100 mile trip east, across country;  a marvellous trip with almost nothing and nowhere en route;  the road was quite good for most of the way, only a 27 km section of gravel over the hills;  onto Napier and found our B&B at Bay View on the top of a hill;  good dinner but very slow service at Estuary's

 

Fri
3rd Feb

Napier

In to explore the town and arrived at the front just as the cannon was fired to mark the 60th Anniversary of the earthquake;  stayed until the end of the ceremony, then mingled with the crowd to shake hands with the Prime Minister, Helen Clarke, - she wished us an enjoyable time in the city;  we took our own Art Deco tour which was great fun;  lunch of crepes;  stopped on the way home to watch waders (godwits);  drove south later towards North Havelock and Te Mata, a pointed mountain with a great view;  unfortunately the restaurant was closed, so after taking pictures of the sunset from the top, we drove hastily down to look for somewhere to eat at North Havelock;  fish and chips

 

Sat
4th Feb

Napier to Eastbourne

A long drive today and we also went the long way round, from Waipukurau on Route 52 south, an interesting route but sometimes not easy to find the way (once found ourselves going north along the coast!);  joined Route 2 at Masterton (tea); on to Wellington over a mountain ridge, spectacular and quite unexpected;  found our B&B up a very steep hill in Eastbourne, lovely situation and so friendly hosts;  after drinks on the terrace with some friends of theirs, walked down the hill and along the road to the Cobar restaurant;  delicious dinner of whitebait;  Doug gave us a lift back home

 

Sun
5th Feb

Eastbourne & Wellington

Rain this morning;  drove down to the ferry, and by this time the rain had stopped;  ferry from Days Bay to Wellington, we sat outside on the top;  after coffee, we visited the Museum of Wellington, City and Sea;  Paninis at an ice cream parlour for lunch, Te Papa, the Museum of New Zealand;  home on ferry at 5 o'clock, rest, drinks, out to the Cobar again, and another very good dinner;  we walked home this time!  Changed rooms to the 'servants quarters' just downstairs, not such a big room but equally comfortable (our hosts room, they turned out so that we could stay)

 

Mon
6th Feb

Eastbourne

Better day but a cold wind;  ferry at 10:30 again and through the city to the 'cable car', actually a funicular, and up into the Botanic Gardens;  after a quick lunch, went to the planetarium to see Southern Stars;  down through the gardens in warm sunshine, beautiful Rose garden but all the flowers had different names;  hurried down to ferry (non-existent);  looked at railway station;  a third fabulous dinner at Cobar, I had lambs liver and chips!!

 

Tues
7th Feb

Ferry to South Island &
Raetihi Lodge

Up early and drove down into Wellington to catch the Inter-island ferry to the south island;  got petrol near the railway station (good job we knew where it was), left the car and set off again;  sunshine and a smooth sea, sandwich lunch aboard;  a delicious day;  to Picton;  had to wait for the next water taxi, then across the Queen Charlotte Sound, over the ridge by bus (crossed the Queen Charlotte Track), across Kenepura Sound with another water taxi and to Raetihi Lodge;  a superb location all by itself;  short stroll along the beach;  arranged to have D, B&B and perhaps stay another day;  Peter's back not feeling too good so he went to lie down;  3 course dinner which we ate with much pleasure.

 

Wed
8th Feb

Raetihi Lodge

Rain and a dull day;  Peter was happy to rest his back and I enjoyed doing nothing and just reading my book;  Peter arranged to have a hair cut and a massage so I went out for a walk further along the shore road to Hopewell and on as far as the scenic reserve, out about 1 and 1/2 hours;  another splendid dinner, and we can stay another day

 

Thurs
9th  Feb

Raetihi Lodge

Better weather and Peter better too, so we set off to climb Pete's Peak;  it should take 4 hours there and back from Hopewell, but when we got up to the ridge, it was still some way above us and we had been going almost 3 hours, so had a picnic in the sunshine with views across to Havelock and back down to Pelourus Sound, (found out later that 6 hours would have been a better estimate);  I had a massage too which was a great relaxation after the walk;  another good dinner and bed early in another room – equally nice, just further along the corridor

 

Fri
10th Feb.

Raetihi Lodge to Nelson

Sad to leave such a nice place;  the water taxi picked us up at 10:30 with 2 young Dutch people;  to Picton, bought ticket for the bus and had lunch;  bus to Nelson via Blenheim and Havelock, only a small bus but we were almost by ourselves so it was comfortable;  Denis picked us up at The Glen and we were soon home with him and Kathie for a great welcome and a cup of tea;  after lots of chat, had dinner with Simon Thomas, ex Keele, he remembered us but I didn't remember him

 

Sat
11th Feb

Nelson
with Denis & Kathie Dixon

Out early, BEFORE BREAKFAST, to Nelson market;  actually did some shopping first, met Liz, their daughter, and had breakfast together, crepes;  wandered around the market, bought fish for dinner and home for a light lunch sitting outside;  out later for a wine tasting where Liz works and to take her home;  we had a celebration dinner as it was Kathie and Denis's 35th wedding anniversary; all off to bed feeling very happy.

 

Sun
12th Feb

Nelson

Breakfast first today!  picked Liz up to take her to the vineyard;  to the Rutherford Memorial, impressive;  coffee and cake before visiting WOW, World Of Wearable Art Museum, spectacular, also a vintage car museum;  walked along the path by the beach with Denis;  Peter went swimming when we returned;  all out to dinner at Thai restaurant

 

Mon
13th Feb

Nelson to Golden Bay

Lazy start today;  Denis took us to the airport to collect the car;  they had kept a large and very nice one for us (Karin hid the keys in her lunch box over the weekend!)drove north along the coast over Takaka hills;  stopped at 2 lookouts and had lunch at the 2nd one;  visited Pupu Springs, delightful; 

Along coast through Collingwood to Pakawau, almost the end of the road;  lovely large room and just down the garden and onto the beach;  tide out so we walked along the beach for a couple of hours before dinner which Val and Graham cooked for us;  a real holiday feel and a great evening

 

Tues
14th Feb

Golden Bay

To the visitor centre at Puponga, really the end of the road;  drove up the road and then walked up to Pillar Point and lighthouse, fabulous views along the coast and back to Farewell Spit;  to the road through Puponga Farm Park and walked on the farm track round Dune Lake;  weather not too promising and starting to rain so we turned off down to the far end of Wharariki beach;  we arrived too early and sat around on the rocks and in the caves waiting for the tide to go down so that we could walk along;  found one large male fur seal basking on the beach;  around rocks, through arches and up the sandy beach, arriving back at the car just in time before the rain really settled in;  Peter out to Collingwood to eat by himself, I retreated to bed

 


 

Wed
15th Feb

Golden Bay

Quiet day;  Peter to Backpackers to do e-mails;  swam at high tide though not very warm;  sardines on toast on our deck for lunch;  drove out along dirt road to Westhaven, but not too thrilling so we returned to walk along our beach again, saw several large 11 legged starfish;  dinner with Val and Graham plus one other guest, a pleasant and relaxing evening, they are fascinating people and have done lots of interesting things

 

Thurs
16th Feb

Golden Bay to Charleston

Sadly left Golden Bay;  coffee and bank at Takaka, back over the spectacular hill pass then south to Murcheston and Bullers Gorge Road, and Westport;  we didn't visit but drove on to Cape Foul Wind to see the seal colony, lots of young playing;  found our B&B out in the wilds, a rather cluttered room with 2 large beds;  sat outside in the hot tub drinking wine;  very good dinner there with the other guests;  booked further accommodation but with difficulty

 

Fri
17th Feb

TranzAlpine train to Christchurch

Used both beds so in the end we both slept well;  on our way south we visited Punakaiki Rocks and blow holes;  to Greymouth in good time and collected the tickets for the train;  lunch and coffee in town and waited around for the (late) train;  up to Arthurs Pass where we all got out, it's the same height as Garmisch;  on down towards Christchurch with good views from the open coach;  swish hotel and we were given the best room!  Japanese dinner and back to try out the jacuzzi

 

Sat
18th Feb

Tranz Alpine train to Greymouth and Hokitika

Quick breakfast and taxi to the station;  we were seated on the wrong side but we managed to change and had good views out of the other side of the train;  we arrived about an hour late and found our car waiting for us;  we both enjoyed the 2 train journeys and the relaxing sit-down, but I don't think it was as spectacular as I had expected, would probably have been better to drive up to Arthurs Pass;  lunch in Greymouth and south to Kokitika;  visited Tourist office and booked for next week, they were so helpful;  found our B&B, then back into town for dinner overlooking the Tasman Sea, the best table too

 

Sun
19th Feb

Franz Josef Glacier

Roger took us to the start of the Mahinapua walkway (we had left our car at the other end) for a lovely 2 and half hour walk through forest, a side trip to the lake, boardwalk over swamps, past the remains of an old mine and to the car;  lunch by Lake Mahinapua;  south to Ross and Whataroa (tea), and the expensive B&B;  splendid new building and quite nice, but some inadequacies;  into village and out to see the glacier, only a glimpse of rather dirty snow and a dull looking path to the face;  a good dinner in Beeches, a busy town

 

Mon
20th Feb

Franz Josef Glacier

Dull day though it improved;  Peter has a cold;  to Franz Josef glacier and walked up to the face, a nicer and more interesting walk than we had expected;  wandered around and viewed parties climbing the dirty ice;  drove on towards the Fox glacier and up to the car park to see that one too;  walked up to the face, a very much more difficult path and very steep at the beginning;  lunch near the face by the side of a waterfall;  another glacier that is retreating showing only dirty ice, not so much activity here;  I drove back to our Country retreat for a rest (two good walks today);  Peter sorted out the money and we went into town to do the rest of the e-mails and to have a light dinner at Beeches

 

Tues
20th Feb

Over Haast Pass to Wanaka

Pouring with rain this morning as we packed up and drove south;  the rain stopped as we got to Haast, so we went further south to the end of the road, Jacksons Bay;  Wharekai Te Kau walk to secluded bay where we had lunch;  plagued by sand-flies so we retreated hastily;  sampled a whitebait fritter in the Craypot;  back to Haast and over the pass (spectacular scenery) and down the valley, past lakes to Wanaka;  difficulty in finding the B&B, we took the wrong road out of town;  back into town for a nice meal sitting outside (it was windy and a little chilly).

 

Wed
22nd Feb

Wanaka to Queenstown

Deirdre was very helpful and we were able to fix up B&Bs until we got to Christchurch, book the ferry to Stewart Island, and reorganise the start of the cruise;  it's very nice to have it all done but it does seem that our holiday is drawing to a close;  shopping in town, then to Puzzling World;  spent an hour or more getting round the maze (and out again!) lunch playing with the puzzles and a quick visit to the museum, with holograms, illusions. Etc.;  to Queenstown past winter skiing areas to a surprisingly pleasant town surrounded by mountains;  out hotel, somewhat outside the town, was overbooked, so we were moved to a not-quite-finished hotel in town just across from the lake – much more convenient with huge room;  walked across the road and looked round but then settled on a small fish & chip bar and had a most enjoyable meal;  very cold as we walked back and we were surprised to see next morning, all the tops of the mountains covered with a dusting of new snow

Thurs
23rd Feb

Doubtful Sound Overnight Cruise

Early start from Queenstown south to Manapouri;  stopped en route to  photograph the Kingston Flyer;  collected tickets for cruise, sandwiches for lunch and parked the car;  a quick walk along the beach, then the first boat across Lake Manapouri, a 50 minute trip so we ate our lunch, to West Arm (sandfly capital of the west!) and the visitor centre;  bus over Wilmot Pass and down to the dock on Doubtful Sound at Deep Cove and the Navigator;  we have a nice cabin out onto a protected walkway and up to the outside area at the front;  tea and muffins then we went for a rest and decided not to go canoeing or a ride in an inflatable;  motored round and then out towards the open sea;  soup and rolls at 5:00 then on deck to look at the seals, birds and views;  dinner at 7:30, we sat with Roger and Margaret, two English who had emigrated to Australia in the 1960s and a Scottish lady and her friend from Australia, and enjoyable evening was had by all, and a good dinner too;  once round the decks and to bed; we were moored overnight in a quiet arm of the Sound.

Fri
24th Feb

Doubtful Sound


Manapouri to Bluff

Breakfast between 7 and 8 then up anchor and away;  a glorious day though not too sunny, with spectacular views;  all on deck, engines off and 10 minutes to listen to the absolute silence;  finally back to the dock, bus over the ridge and water taxi back to Manapoura;  a marvellous trip and made even more so as we had good weather;  smooth drive to Bluff via Invercargill and found our B&B, we have a whole apartment;  I did the washing and Peter drove back into Invercargill to get money;  very windy whipping up the sea, and it seemed to get worse over night;  around Bluff to lookout at southerly point, dinner at the Anchorage – delicious fish & chips;  drove up to lookout on the hill then home ready for an early start tomorrow

Sat
25th Feb.

Bluff to Stewart Island

Still very windy and the sea looked menacing;  the crossing to Stewart Island was very rough, the pilot several times stopping the engines to ride a particular enormous wave;  the crossing was 10 minutes late and we were pleased to arrive;  Iris met us and took us up to our B&B;  out for a walk in the town, across to Observation Rock, down Fuchsia walk (where we watched a kaka) and into town for lunch at the Kai Kart, we had enormous bowls of mussel chowder – delicious;  guided visit to Ulva Island with Peter Tait, the water taxi was his yatch, very impressive;  a fascinating walk on the island and we learned a lot about conservation and vegetation;  saw an elephant seal on the beach that was moulting;  still a high wind and we all got really rather cold;  dinner at the hotel with Barbara, a German Lady;  good soup to warm us up

Sun
26th Feb

Stewart Island

I was not feeling too well with a bad cold but went out nevertheless;  walked to Ryans Creek and on along the coast – often a boardwalk up and down, but otherwise very muddy indeed; stopped on a small knoll overlooking sea for lunch;  to Golden Bay and then along Fuchsia walk and home;  pizza for dinner then walk towards Ackers Point over Lonnekers Beach and as far as Harrolds Bay;  the oldest house on Stewart Island;  two substantial walks and we were both pleased to be back;  no kiwis but some interesting noises!

Mon
27th Feb

Return ferry to Gore

Rain today and I stayed in bed to help my cold;  slept on the sofa in the morning and Peter walked to Horseshoe Bay;  fish and chips for lunch;  smooth ferry crossing to Bluff, but still raining heavily;  lovely B&B outside Gore in brand-new house (though we nearly left as we didn't think anyone was in);  Shona gave us soup and the best part of a meal afterwards;  Brian is a farmer and trains sheepdogs – fascinating;  slept very well for the first time in a week.

Tues
28th Feb

Gore to Christchurch

Explored the house and watched one sheepdog showing what it could do;  on to Dunedin, parked in the middle and went inside the cathedral;  windy lunch at Shag Point watching the seals;  tea at Timaru;  good but long drive to Christchurch, found shut Budget office ready for tomorrow;  changed dingy hotel room for a suite;  Sticky Fingers for dinner, shared mussels and lamb cutlets.

Wed
1st March

Christchurch

Peter out early to get petrol and take the car back;  tram to botanic gardens;  sandwich lunch with CHIPS;  Rutherford's den in the old university physics department;  tram all the way round;  new Art Gallery;  later tram again to Art Gallery and splendid dinner (Peter, salmon and fungi, I had steak!)

Thurs
2nd March

Christchurch to Auckland and on to Singapore

Leisurely breakfast;  taxi to the airport,  we had to queue to get our boarding passes;  after we had checked in, we walked off to the Antarctic Museum;  coffee but not enough time to visit;  flight to Auckland, uneventful;  collected boarding passes for next flight and paid our money to leave New Zealand;  sat in lounge and ate niblets;  to Singapore;  ate well but felt the wrong time!  I watched 'Pride and Prejudice', Peter, The last Harry Potter;  arrived very tired to be told that we had no room, BUT we were offered a service apartment in the grounds of the hotel instead;  a lovely set of rooms so we were very happy with that, and they even gave us a bottle of Champagne to take to our family;  walked round the gardens before going to bed, I didn't feel well and didn't sleep well

Fri.
3rd March

Singapore to Jakarta

Up early for a light breakfast and taxi to the airport (paid for by the hotel);  short flight to Jakarta and met by Eddy;  great welcome from Nicky but I retired to bed and to sleep;  lovely to see the boys and Michael when he arrived home from work;  I managed a little dinner, but it wasn't long before we all went to bed

Sat
4th March

with Mike and Nicky

I slept much of the day and felt better, Peter went out to watch Charlie play football;  light tea then all out to a Bingo evening at the school;  I was beginning to wake up so it was quite fun, though we didn't win anything and it began to get rather boring

Sun
5th March

 

Lovely to be here with Mike and family;  Charlie joined us for a trip to Taman Mini, a sort of open air museum of Indonesia and the various styles of housing;  on the cable car for a great view of the whole complex (I bought some trousers first);  then round by car, stopping to explore;  Michael met a group of children learning English, so we all helped talking to them, it was fun;  went round the buildings from Sumartra and watched some dancing;  home for late lunch, sleep and then out to the pictures, a treat for Charlie and James!  we saw 'Firewall' with Harrison Ford and sat right at the front – an interesting story, lots of action and violence (which didn't appeal very much);  home for a late dinner

Mon
6th March.





Tues
7th March

Jakarta to Singapore


Singapore to Manchester


Home

A lazy morning finishing the packing;  Peter went swimming, I nursed the cold which seems to be getting better;  lunch with Nicky;  taxi to the airport for flight back to Singapore;  sat in lounge, rather tedious, I slept a little, Peter bought several electronic things!  At last our flight to Manchester was called, but we were late leaving, so we actually ate in the middle of the night;  a good flight as ever and we both watched a Harry Potter film, but I didn't sleep very well and had a headache (well looked after, though I didn't need anything);  breakfast early before the stop at Zόrich, then a delicious snack before we arrived in Manchester;  off the plane early, all our bags were first off, no trouble with emigration and customs, so we were soon out;  cup of coffee while we waited for the taxi home

 Some reflections

We have had a great holiday.  New Zealand has such a huge variety of landscapes, all lovely to look at and some really spectacular.  We did none of the long hiking tracks (next time perhaps?), but went out for day walks whenever we could, the Okatanina Walkway and the Tama Lakes were high-lights, though shorter ones in the south island were all enjoyable.  The weather was reasonable, though it wasn't as warm as expected and we would often have liked it warmer.  What impressed us most was the hospitality and friendliness of the people, from our hosts at the B&Bs, the people we met 'in the street', and all the staff at offices, bureaus and restaurants.  The pace of life is much more relaxed, ideal for a holiday, though we occasionally found it a little tedious when waiting for a cup of coffee.  I enjoyed it all so much that it is difficult to pick anything out and say 'that was the best'.  Our visit to Kathie and Denis in Nelson was the centre point of our trip, and we were fascinated with Rotorua, felt really on holiday at Golden Bay, Doubtful Sound was so beautiful; and then we were at the bottom of the world on Stewart Island.  We ate marvellous meals, often too big for us to manage alone, seafood, delicious lamb and tender beef.  As you can see, we enjoyed ourselves.  Seeing Michael and family at the end rounded the trip off nicely, and now we are happy to be back home taking up our normal lives again.